Sumba is fast becoming one of Indonesia’s most talked-about islands. Much like Lombok a few years ago, it’s now Sumba that’s catching the eye of travelers looking for something raw, real, and still largely untouched by mass tourism. And if there’s one area that draws the most attention, it’s the island’s southwest corner—a place of empty beaches, untamed landscapes, and a megalithic culture that has quietly endured for centuries.
Why Visit the Southwest?
Like the rest of the island, Southwest Sumba is home to unspoiled nature and a culture that continues to fascinate—not just foreigners, but also Indonesians from other islands. Compared to the drier east, the southwest is noticeably greener and lusher, and its rolling hills dotted with grazing horses and buffaloes create a landscape that’s hard to forget—and even harder to leave.
What to Do and See in Southwest Sumba
Ratenggaro Village
If there’s one place that captures the spirit of Sumba in a single view, it’s Ratenggaro Village. Often described as one of the island’s most iconic kampungs, it’s also one of the most photogenic. Unlike some more polished tourist spots, Ratenggaro still feels lived-in and real—a powerful glimpse into Sumba’s traditional architecture and rural life.
The village is made up of tall thatched houses with distinctive pointed roofs, surrounded by massive stone tombs that mark the entrance like silent guardians. It feels like a place where time has taken a pause.
The best view of the village is actually from the nearby beach—beautiful in its own right. But don’t plan to swim here. Bright orange signs warn of crocodiles (“awas buaya”), and while sightings are rare even in marked areas, it’s smart to take the warnings seriously and respect local advice.
For a small fee, you can also try on traditional clothing, step inside one of the homes, and learn more about the architecture and community life that give this place its unique character.
Weekuri Lake
One of the natural highlights of Southwest Sumba is Weekuri Lake—a saltwater lagoon surrounded by jagged cliffs, just about an hour and a half from the Tambolaka airport. The water is crystal clear and turquoise, and the peaceful setting makes it an ideal spot for both physical and mental rest.
A wooden walkway leads you to a viewpoint where you can watch crashing ocean waves on one side and, in contrast, the still, transparent water of the lagoon on the other. It’s a striking and beautiful contrast that makes this place feel truly special.
Beaches
Southwest Sumba is known for its beautiful, often completely empty beaches. While swimming isn’t allowed at Ratenggaro due to crocodile warnings, here are a few beaches where the water is safe—and the scenery just as stunning.
Mandorak
A small, quiet cove with soft white sand and rocky cliffs that form a kind of natural gateway. It’s one of the better-known spots on the island and great for photos. Be aware of locals at the entrance who might try to charge unofficial entrance fees at high prices. Don’t hesitate to negotiate and trust your gut—if there’s no official ticket, don’t feel pressured to pay more than what feels fair.
Pero
The opposite of Mandorak in every way. Long, open, and peaceful, Pero Beach is ideal for swimming, relaxing, and watching the sunset. It’s close to the airport and easily accessible by taxi or motorbike. No entrance fees here.
Kita Beach
A long stretch of golden sand on the north coast, about 20 km from the airport. Great for swimming and a perfect spot to simply enjoy the sea.
Watu Malandong
A scenic beach on the west coast, famous for its dramatic rock formations. Strong currents mean you shouldn’t swim far from shore, but it’s still a great place to cool off and take in the view. It’s a bit harder to reach, but for those looking for peace and a bit of adventure, it’s worth the effort.
Surfing
Sumba has long been called a hidden gem for surfers. In some of the earliest travel guides that mention the island, it was even described as a surfer’s Mecca. Over time, though, most of the surf camps along the south coast faded from view, and many surfers turned to other Indonesian islands.
But that doesn’t mean Sumba has nothing to offer—quite the opposite. The waves along the southwest coast are strong and often require long paddling, making them better suited to experienced surfers. On the plus side, the interest in Sumba is slowly returning, and new camps and surf schools are starting to appear—even for beginners.
Just be prepared for the basics. Unlike Bali, there’s very little infrastructure, so you’ll likely need to rely on local guides or surf-friendly resorts to get the most out of your trip.
Rumah Budaya Sumba
In many parts of Sumba, traditional villages welcome visitors with open arms. But in the southwest, things are a bit different. Locals here tend to be more reserved, and foreigners aren’t always expected or encouraged to visit villages without an invitation. Even the local police advise travelers to be respectful and keep some distance.
If you’re curious about Sumba’s rich cultural heritage, a great alternative is the Rumah Budaya Sumba, located near the airport in Weetabula (Tambolaka). This cultural center and museum offers a thoughtful introduction to the island’s history, Marapu beliefs, traditional architecture, and everyday life.
The collection of artifacts, textiles, and photographs is a great complement to your journey through the island—and helps give more context to what you’ll see on the road.
Backindo Tip: Rumah Budaya Sumba isn’t just a cultural center—it also offers unique, quiet accommodation surrounded by local history and nature.
How to Get There
Southwest Sumba is served by its own airport, Tambolaka Airport (TMC), located near the town of Weetabula. It’s the most convenient entry point for travelers heading to this part of the island. There are regular direct flights from Denpasar (Bali) and Kupang (Timor), making it easy to reach without having to cross the island.
Planning to fly within Indonesia? Check out our Guide to Domestic Flights in Indonesia.
Most travelers choose to fly directly into Tambolaka, especially if they’re planning to explore the beaches and traditional sites nearby. The airport is small but functional, and from here it’s just a short drive to many of the area’s main sights.
Alternatively, if you’re coming from Waingapu in the east, you can get to Southwest Sumba by bus or shared car (travel). The journey takes around three to four hours, depending on road conditions.
For those planning to explore more remote areas, it’s a good idea to rent a scooter or car with a driver right after landing—public transport is very limited in this region.
Backindo Tip: Some resorts and homestays might offer airport pick-ups—either included with your stay or available for a reasonable fee.
Getting Around in Southwest Sumba
Taxi
The easiest way to get from Tambolaka Airport to nearby hotels or beaches is by regular taxi. Ride-hailing apps like Gojek or Grab don’t operate here yet, so you’ll need to arrange a driver on the spot. It’s a good idea to negotiate the price right after landing and save the driver’s contact—you can then call them later for day trips or transfers.
Car with Driver
If you prefer comfort and flexibility, hiring a car with a driver is a solid option. Just be prepared: prices are much higher than in Bali or Lombok. A full-day rate of 1 to 1.5 million IDR is completely standard in this region.
Backindo Tip: Looking for a reliable driver in this area? Let us know at hello@backindo.com and we’ll send you a list of our recommended drivers and guides.
Bemo and Ojek
For a more local and budget-friendly experience, you can try a bemo—small shared minivans that connect the town with surrounding villages and even with Waikabubak. Another common option is taking an ojek (motorbike taxi), which works the same way as a regular taxi—you simply negotiate the price and hop on.
Scooter Rental
You can also rent a scooter, but be aware that roads here can be rough and unpredictable. Traffic isn’t heavy like in Bali or Java, but it can be unstructured and chaotic. This option is best suited for experienced riders. If you’ve never ridden a scooter before, Sumba is not the place to start learning.
Backindo Tip: If you're traveling on your own, keep in mind that after heavy rains, many roads can become difficult—or even impossible—to pass. The best months for smooth travel are May, June, September, and October.
Where to Stay
There are several accommodation options in Southwest Sumba—mainly a mix of simple homestays and luxury resorts or villas.
Near the airport, you’ll find Hotel Pasola—small, clean, and perfectly fine for a night or two if you’re arriving late or flying out early.
Other good options include Villa Redemptorist, and for those planning to spend more time by the sea than on the road, Mario Hotel and Café is a great pick. Thanks to its beachfront location, it’s ideal for travelers looking to relax by the ocean rather than move around too much.
Where to Head Next?
Spending a few days in Southwest Sumba is a great way to start exploring the island—but it’s only one piece of the puzzle. After two or three days, it’s worth continuing eastward. Every region of Sumba has its own rhythm: the west is known for its traditional villages and rich cultural heritage, while the east offers endless savannahs and quiet, untouched waterfalls.
That said, Southwest Sumba isn’t for everyone. Infrastructure is limited, the hospitality industry is still growing, and practical info can be hard to come by. Locals can be more reserved, and if you’re used to a wide choice of restaurants or hotels, you might feel out of your element. But for many travelers, that’s exactly what makes this place so special.
If you’re drawn to authentic experiences, dramatic landscapes, and a break from the well-trodden path, this corner of Sumba delivers. And once you’ve felt the quiet magic of the island, there’s a good chance you’ll want to come back.
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