Central Sumba is the least visited part of the island—and that’s exactly what makes it special. You won’t find fancy resorts or well-developed tourist services here, but if you’re a backpacker or an independent traveler looking to experience Sumba’s raw, unfiltered vibe, this might just be your favorite stop. It’s the kind of place that feels like the end of the world—in the best way.
Why Visit Central Sumba
Precisely because most travelers skip Central Sumba, it offers a rare kind of peace. Expect quiet beaches, waterfalls with no one around, and a genuine glimpse into daily life on the island. While it’s best suited as a shorter stop, it pairs perfectly with a visit to East or West Sumba, forming a more complete—and much less crowded—Sumba loop.
What to See and Do in Central Sumba
Waterfalls
Air Terjun Kolam Jodoh
One of the easiest and most charming stops is Air Terjun Kolam Jodoh. While not huge, this waterfall flows into a clear natural pool perfect for a refreshing dip. According to local legend, couples who visit together will have all their wishes granted—hence the name “Lover’s Pool.” It’s just a short walk from the main road through a peaceful stretch of farmland.
Air Terjun Harunda
On the wilder side is Air Terjun Harunda near the village of Soru. This lesser-known waterfall drops 20 meters down dramatic rock terraces, hidden deep in the hills between steep cliffs. It’s surprisingly easy to reach—no guide needed—which makes it a great detour if you’re looking for something photogenic and off the beaten path.
Empty Beaches
Mondulambi Beach
The beaches along the southern coast are about as peaceful as it gets. In fact, you may not see another soul—not even locals. This quiet has its pros and cons. Take Mondulambi Beach, for example. It’s stunning, especially the view of towering sea stacks from the far side of the river mouth—but you might need help from locals to cross the shallow water to reach it. Just ask at one of the nearby homes.
Some sources mention crocodiles in the area, but according to locals, that’s no longer a concern. Still, best to double-check before swimming.
Maloba, Aili, Lisi Beaches
For a safe swim, head to Maloba, Aili, or Lisi Beach—all are gorgeous, with soft white sand and easy water access. Just watch out for waves; the Indian Ocean can be unpredictable, even on calm days.
Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park
A large portion of Central Sumba is wrapped in Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park—the only remaining lowland rainforest on the entire island. Most of Sumba’s original forest has been cleared over time, replaced by savanna and grazing land, making this park especially precious.
Inside the park, you’ll find around 87 species of birds, seven of which are endemic—meaning they live nowhere else on earth. Among them: the Sumba hornbill, yellow-crested cockatoo, Sumba green pigeon, and several sunbirds.
Also 57 species of butterflies call this place home, seven of those endemic too. Because of all this, the park is a fantastic spot for trekking and—especially—birdwatching. If you love nature, this is where things feel wild and original.
Traditional Villages
Pasunga Village
Pasunga Village is officially recognized as a “center for promoting traditional culture.” You won’t often see luxury, but you will find megalithic tombs, authentic architecture, and local ceremonies. It gives a good glimpse into how things used to be, and still are—just much quieter.
Kampung Deri
For a deeper experience, consider staying in Kampung Deri. It’s more remote and less touched by tourism. In Deri, people still live traditionally—no metal roofs replacing thatch, no shiny gift shops crowding the paths. Sometimes you might even get the chance to chew betel nuts with the village chief.
How to Get to Central Sumba
There’s no airport in Central Sumba itself, so getting here takes a bit more effort. If you’re flying in from Bali, your closest entry points are Waingapu in the east or Tambolaka in the southwest. From either town, you can reach Central Sumba by local bus, shared car (travel), or by hiring a private driver for a more comfortable ride.
Flying around Indonesia? Read our Guide to Domestic Flights in Indonesia for useful tips.
If you’re feeling adventurous, rent a scooter and take the journey into your own hands. Scooters are available not just in Waingapu and Tambolaka, but also in Waikabubak, making it easy to explore the island at your own pace. Just keep in mind that road conditions can be rough in remote areas, especially after heavy rain—so always check your route in advance.
Backindo Tip: Tourist services in Sumba are more expensive than in Bali—a scooter rental usually costs around 200,000 IDR per day, while a car with a driver starts at 1,000,000 IDR, plus meals and possibly accommodation for the driver.
Getting Around
Once you’re in Central Sumba, renting a motorbike is the best way to experience the region up close—winding through savannas, stopping at waterfalls, and exploring quiet villages. But keep in mind: the roads can be tricky, and this option is best suited for confident, experienced riders.
For a more relaxed (but pricier) option, you can hire a car with a driver, especially if you’re traveling in a group or want to reach more remote places comfortably.
Backindo Tip: Looking for a reliable guide in Sumba? Feel free to reach out at hello@backindo.com. We’ll be happy to connect you with trustworthy local guides who know the island inside out.
Public transport here is minimal. Small shared vans known as bemo connect the town of Waibakul with a few nearby villages, but they run irregularly and are best left to those with flexible plans and plenty of time.
Backindo Tip: Planning to rent a scooter? Book ahead via WhatsApp or your accommodation—especially in peak season. In August 2025, most rentals were fully booked two weeks in advance.
Best Time to Visit
Just like the rest of Sumba, the best time to visit Central Sumba is between April and June. These months fall within the dry season, which means the roads are in good condition—but there’s still enough rainfall left to keep the waterfalls flowing beautifully. It’s that sweet spot when nature is lush, yet travel logistics are easier to manage.
Even during the rainy season, Sumba doesn’t see as much heavy rain as Java or Bali. That said, some remote roads and access trails—especially those leading to beaches and waterfalls—can become muddy or partially flooded. If you’re planning to explore off the beaten path, it’s wise to check local conditions or ask your host for the latest updates.
Where to Stay
Tourism infrastructure in Central Sumba is modest compared to the east or west, but you’ll still find a few basic hotels and guesthouses to rest your head. In Waibakul, Hotel Bintang is one of the better-known options, while in Lewa, you’ll find simple and friendly accommodation at Homestay Made Rahayu. Expect clean rooms, local hospitality, and a glimpse into everyday life in this quieter part of the island.
What to Eat
Like elsewhere on Sumba, food here is simple and hearty—lots of rice, noodles, and chili. Most small eateries (warungs) are run by Javanese or Balinese migrants, so you’ll see familiar dishes from those islands. But don’t skip the local markets, where you can try a variety of exotic fruits and snacks. And if you get the chance to sip some strong ginger coffee (kopi jahe), definitely give it a go—it’s spicy, warming, and surprisingly energizing.
Where to Go Next
Thanks to its central location, this region makes a natural stopover between Waingapu in the east and Waikabubak in the west. It’s the perfect base to break up your journey and squeeze in a few local adventures before continuing onward. Combining different parts of the island in a single trip is hands-down the best way to get to know Sumba in all its contrasts—from remote waterfalls and savannas to traditional villages and quiet coastal stretches.
In Summary
Central Sumba is a great choice for travelers looking for authenticity, solitude, and a bit of off-the-map adventure. Whether you’re chasing waterfalls, exploring hidden beaches, visiting traditional villages, or trekking through national parks, you’re in for a rewarding experience. And if your trip to Sumba is more than just a quick stop, be sure to include this part of the island in your itinerary—it might just be the quiet highlight of your journey.
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