In recent years, Sumba has been gaining the attention of travelers—mainly for its empty beaches, surf spots, and picturesque traditional villages. But the island offers much more than that.
It preserves a fascinating culture and set of traditions that remain deeply rooted in the daily lives of local people. From horse races and cockfighting to animal-organ divination—these customs are not tourist shows. They are real expressions of Sumbanese life, which visitors are welcome to observe without hesitation.
Many of these activities are deeply rooted in the local community and can be difficult to attend without the right connections.
If you're interested in experiencing any of them, feel free to reach out to us at hello@backindo.com—we have local friends in Sumba who can help you arrange your visit.
Pasola
The most famous—and perhaps most captivating—event on West Sumba is pasola, a traditional horseback battle where two teams of riders from neighboring villages charge at each other, hurling wooden spears.
In the past, it was a bloody ritual: sharp-tipped spears were used, and the shedding of blood was believed to ensure fertile fields. Today, the spears are blunt, making the event far safer—yet no less intense. It’s still a thrilling spectacle that draws crowds from near and far.
Pasola takes place annually in February and March in a few select villages in West and Southwest Sumba. The exact dates depend on the lunar calendar and the appearance of sea worms (nyale), which gather on the shore during this time. Local elders must approve the final schedule, so the exact date is usually announced only days or weeks in advance.
For visitors, Kodi is the most accessible place to see pasola—but for a more immersive experience, heading to Wanokaka or Lamboya is worth the journey.
Pajura
Alongside the famous pasola, there’s another lesser-known but equally fascinating tradition—pajura, a form of traditional boxing. This intense display of strength and agility allows young men to earn respect and prestige within their communities.
The matches take place on Teitena Beach in the Wanokaka district, usually kicking off around midnight and sometimes lasting until sunrise. Fighters wear gloves made from tightly wrapped alang-alang grass, with stiff ends used for gripping. These gloves pack a serious punch, and the pain is very real—which may explain why participants often fuel up on local alcohol before stepping into the ring.
Pajura typically happens a few days before pasola, in February or March. Since the location is remote and the event takes place late at night, it’s highly recommended to go with a local guide.
Funeral Ceremonies
Funerals in Sumba are unlike anything you’ll find elsewhere—marked by megalithic tombs, ritual dances, music, and the sacrificial offering of animals. Perhaps the most surprising element is the delay: burial often takes place months or even years after a person has passed.
During this time, the body is embalmed, wrapped in many layers of handwoven cloth, and placed in a special room within the family home. The family then prepares for the elaborate ceremony, which involves building a stone tomb and gathering the funds needed for the ritual—often a significant financial burden. This is because funerals include animal sacrifices such as buffaloes, cows, horses, and in some areas even dogs. These animals are believed to accompany the deceased into the ancestral afterlife, according to the local animist belief system, marapu.
Exact dates are never announced far in advance, but during your time on the island, there’s a good chance you might come across a funeral. Don’t hesitate to mention your interest to a guide, driver, or even your hotel.
Backindo Tip: Foreigners are usually welcomed as special guests, but it’s always polite to ask before joining. Bring a small gift like betel nuts or a piece of woven fabric, and follow any instructions locals give you.
Horse Racing
Horses in Sumba are a symbol of prestige, so it’s no surprise that horse racing is one of the most exciting cultural events. Betting is very popular among locals, which always adds tension and life to the atmosphere. Races are held in different categories depending on horse breeds—and yes, one breed, Sandalwood, originates here.
Jockeys are often young boys (pre‑teen), many riding without helmets or saddles, yet still managing to control their horses with surprising skill. Races happen during the dry season, and you’ll usually hear about them from your hotel or a local guide. In the villages, races are smaller affairs. But in Waingapu, where there’s a purpose‑built stadium, it becomes a grand event lasting several days.
Sumba guides are written by Nikol, who has called Waingapu home for several years. Don’t miss her Waingapu Travel Guide to East Sumba’s Highlights.
Cockfighting
Cockfights take place year‑round in various parts of the island. For tourists, they’re more of a cultural phenomenon—intense and community‑driven. For locals, it’s a mix of entertainment, competition, and gambling. Every match ends with the death of the losing rooster, so it’s definitely a tradition that isn’t for everyone. But the charged atmosphere and excitement are something many find fascinating.
These fights are officially banned, and though they happen in many places (often quietly), they’re not always easy to locate.
Chicken Innards Divination
Across many cultural events in Sumba—from funerals to festivals—divination using chicken innards is woven into the fabric of local life. It plays a quieter role in everyday decisions, but at important ceremonies, it carries much more weight. Through examining organs and blood, locals say they can read the future—things like the weather, crop yield, or even someone’s personal fate.
This is a very sacred act, and you might not be invited. But if you happen to witness it, it’s a powerful insight—even if you don’t speak the language. If you’re traveling with a driver or guide, you might even arrange for a personalized divination in some villages just for yourself.
Backindo Tip: In many Sumbanese villages, modest clothing is a sign of respect. While no strict dress code is enforced, covering your shoulders and knees goes a long way in showing cultural sensitivity—and ensures a warmer welcome from locals.
Final Thoughts
Sumba’s culture remains largely untouched by mass tourism. It preserves traditions that reflect daily life and spiritual belief, offering glimpses into a world you’ll rarely see elsewhere in Indonesia. For some, these customs may be intense or difficult—but if you dive in, you’ll leave with memories that will last much longer than the usual holiday snapshots.
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