If there’s one place to choose as your base for exploring the Sumbawa district, let it be Sumbawa Besar. This charming town blends echoes of an ancient royal past with the heartbeat of traditional Sumbawan culture and a peaceful, unhurried way of life.
Why Sumbawa Besar?
Unlike the more touristy vibes of Lombok or Bali, you’ll rarely encounter other travelers here—which is exactly what makes the area so appealing. In Sumbawa Besar, you can experience the island in its purest form, while still enjoying the comforts of decent accommodation, tasty local food, and essential services.
It’s a perfect starting point not only for discovering the wider region but also for launching into adventures across the rest of the island. The town offers banks, a hospital, traditional markets, and local restaurants—yet it still holds onto its small-town charm.
Sip a cup of local coffee, wander the narrow streets filled with motorbikes, street vendors, and children playing freely. Listen to stories from locals about the old sultanate that once ruled from here. And when you’re ready, head out to explore the surroundings—where waterfalls, quiet beaches, sweeping views, and traditional villages await.
What to Experience in Sumbawa Besar
The Royal Palace of Dalam Loka
The crown jewel of Sumbawa Besar is Dalam Loka—a former royal palace of the Sumbawan sultan, dating back to the late 19th century. Built entirely from teak wood, it’s one of the largest wooden structures in Indonesia. Once the seat of the sultans, it now serves as a museum showcasing the island’s rich history and cultural heritage.
If you’re lucky, a local guide might offer to show you around. They’ll lead you through the palace’s many rooms, pointing out hidden details you might otherwise miss—like the secret entrance to the women’s quarters of the royal court.
Megalithic Monuments
Beyond the palace, Sumbawa doesn’t have many historical landmarks, as most were destroyed by the massive eruption of Mount Tambora in the 1800s. It’s said that the island’s original culture was nearly erased in the disaster.
Still, a few megalithic burial sites have survived. The most famous is the Sarcophagus, or Ai Renung, located not far from town. It features empty stone tombs engraved with human figures bearing exposed genitals—a likely symbol of fertility. The site remains shrouded in mystery, awaiting deeper archaeological study, but the energy it radiates is truly unforgettable.
Other megalithic sites include Temang Dongan and Situs Raboran, which lie deeper in the island’s mountainous interior. Reaching them requires a bit of effort and a sense of adventure, so it’s best to go with a local guide who knows the way.
Traditional Villages
Just outside Sumbawa Besar, you’ll find a handful of traditional villages—like Pamulung and Poto—that offer a glimpse into the simple, authentic lifestyle of the Sumbawan people. Life here revolves around weaving, pottery, and farming.
Visitors, especially foreigners, are usually welcomed with a mix of warmth and shy curiosity. Even a small gesture—like bringing cigarettes for the men or crayons and sweets for the kids—can bring big smiles and open doors into the heart of the community.
One fascinating tradition that draws visitors to Pamulung is barapan kebo—a buffalo race through a muddy rice field. It’s a ritual that symbolizes good harvests and community unity. These races take place at the start of the rice-planting season, usually between September and November.
There’s no official entrance fee to visit the villages, but a small token of appreciation is always seen as a respectful and friendly gesture.
Waterfalls
Just a short ride from town, several scenic waterfalls await—and they’re easy to reach by motorbike. One of the most popular is Ai Lemak, with a paved path leading right to it. Locals love to gather here on weekends for relaxed picnics, but if you visit on a weekday, there’s a good chance you’ll have the whole place to yourself.
Craving more seclusion and a splash of adventure? Head to Ai Beling, a cascading waterfall hidden in the jungle, where you can cool off in refreshingly clear waters.
Another favorite among locals is Wisata Alam Semongkat—a peaceful forest river spot with clean water and colorful pebbles, perfect for a lazy afternoon swim. It might not be jaw-dropping, but it’s a refreshing escape from the town’s heat and a great way to unwind in nature.
Backindo Tip: If you're heading to the waterfalls during the rainy season, be cautious—some paths can get slippery and the water current can rise quickly and unexpectedly. Better to wear sturdy shoes and ask locals about conditions before you go.
Moyo Island
Just off the coast from Labuan Aji harbor lies Moyo Island—well-known, yet still wonderfully remote and serene. Though it once caught the eye of international celebrities (Princess Diana famously visited here), most travelers only make a quick stopover on their way between Lombok and Flores. But if you choose to stay at least one night, you’ll uncover a paradise for nature lovers and snorkeling enthusiasts.
Learn more in Moyo Island, Sumbawa: A Complete Travel Guide.
Beaches
Even if you decide to skip Moyo Island, you’ll still find lovely beaches near Sumbawa Besar to enjoy. Just a short ride from town is Senja Beach—a peaceful spot with soft white sand and easy access to the sea. It’s perfect for a quiet afternoon with nothing but the sound of gentle waves.
If you’re up for a bit more adventure, head to Sandro Pole Beach. You’ll reach it by walking a 650-meter forest trail starting from Ai Lemak Beach. The path winds through a patch of jungle and opens up to a secluded cove that you’ll likely have all to yourself. Just don’t forget to bring enough water and sunscreen.
Ai Lemak Beach itself is a popular hangout for locals, but may not feel as special to travelers—especially during the rainy season, when ocean currents sometimes bring in a fair amount of trash.
On the northern edge of town lies Jempol Labuan Beach. While it’s not great for swimming, it has its own charm. In the morning, you can watch fishermen returning with their catch, and in the evening, the sunsets are often stunning. Around the beach, small stalls offer coconut water, coffee, fried bananas—and even beer, which is a rare find in Sumbawa.
Bungin Island
About an hour and a half from Sumbawa Besar lies Bungin Island, often called the most densely populated island in the world. Around 14,000 people live on just 8 hectares of land. The island is home to the Bajo people, also known as the “sea nomads”.
They aren’t native to Sumbawa—instead, they arrived long ago by boat, most likely from Sulawesi. Interestingly, their origins trace even further back to the southern Philippines, and their migration to Indonesia began more than 2,000 years ago.
Their houses are tightly packed on wooden stilts, connected by a maze of narrow walkways where kids play and goats nibble on bits of plastic trash. A visit to Bungin offers a truly eye-opening glimpse into a way of life that has resisted modern change.
Nowadays, the island is connected to the mainland by a causeway, making access easier. Locals are used to curious visitors—every now and then, a traveler makes their way here. Some even offer snorkeling trips on small traditional outrigger boats to nearby coral reefs.
Getting to Sumbawa Besar
Reaching Sumbawa Besar is easier than it may seem, and there are a few options depending on your travel style. The fastest route is by domestic flight from Mataram (Lombok) or Denpasar (Bali) to Sultan Muhammad Kaharuddin III Airport. These flights take around 40 minutes and run several times a week.
For a more adventurous route, you can take a ferry from neighboring Lombok to the port of Poto Tano. From there, continue by bus or your own motorbike along the island’s northern coast to Sumbawa Besar. It’s a longer journey, but the scenic views—and the chance to stop at beaches like Maluk—make it a rewarding road trip through the stunning landscapes of West Sumbawa.
Another option is to arrive by bus from the town of Bima in the island’s east. This overland route takes 6–8 hours, so it’s best suited for those planning to explore Sumbawa from east to west.
Best Time to Visit
Like much of Indonesia, the ideal time to visit is during the dry season, from May to October. The weather is more predictable, and the sea is calmer—perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
During the rainy season (November to March), expect occasional downpours, but the landscape transforms into lush, vivid green. For some travelers, that’s part of the magic. Just be cautious if you’re planning to visit Moyo Island—ferries may be limited in December and January due to rough seas.
Getting Around Sumbawa Besar
In town, you can get around easily on foot, by scooter, with a driver, or using ojek (motorbike taxis), which are great for short trips and cost just a few thousand rupiah.
For exploring the surrounding areas, renting a scooter is your best bet—it gives you the freedom to stop wherever you like and connect more closely with local life. If scooters aren’t your thing, you can also hire a car with a driver. The main highway across the island is in excellent condition, making it easy to travel from one part to another. However, once you turn onto smaller roads, expect rougher conditions.
Backindo Tip: Looking for a reliable driver in the area? Reach us at hello@backindo.com and we will share our tips.
Don’t count on public transport—while there are small minibuses (bemo or angkot), they’re infrequent and usually only run short routes. For real exploration, having your own wheels is almost essential.
Best Accommodation in Sumbawa Besar and Around
Sumbawa Besar offers a handful of cozy places to stay, blending comfort with a warm local vibe. If you’re flying in, Samawa Transit Hotel near the airport is a convenient choice. In the city center, try Nio Garden Hotel for easy access to shops and markets. Craving peace and sea breezes? Head to Samawa Seaside Resort, both located near the coast.
Budget travelers and backpackers can find simple, wallet-friendly rooms in family-run guesthouses like Mekar Sari Hotel or Asera Homestay.
For a night away from town, Kencana Beach Hotel on the northern coast is a tranquil hideaway right on the beach—where, after sunset, you might spot crabs the size of your hand scuttling across the sand.
Over on Moyo Island, accommodation options range from rustic to refined. If luxury is your style, try Moleo Moyo Hotel—pure castaway bliss. More down-to-earth travelers will feel right at home in Labuan Aji village. A solid pick? Sunset Moyo Bungalows—affordable, scenic, and just the right amount of simple.
Traditional Food in Sumbawa Besar
Visiting Sumbawa without tasting ayam taliwang—grilled chicken marinated in a fiery local sauce—would be a missed opportunity. While many associate it with Lombok, the dish actually originates here. Try it in town at the popular local spot RM Taliwang Rinjani.
Don’t miss sepat ikan or singang either—sour fish soups bursting with spices and herbs. They come in a few variations, but all feature a rich yellow broth and bold, tangy flavors.
Where to Head Next
From Sumbawa Besar, head east to Dompu, home of the legendary Mount Tambora—whose 1815 eruption ranks among the most powerful in history. From there, you can continue to Bima and even ferry onward to Flores or Sumba.
Curious about what to see and do in Sumba? Check out our in-depth guides to each region of the Sumba island.
If Sumbawa is just a side trip from Lombok on your own motorbike, don’t skip West Sumbawa Regency. It’s a hidden paradise for surfers and beach lovers, with world-class waves and long stretches of golden sand.
Is Sumbawa Besar Worth a Visit?
Sumbawa Besar and the greater Sumbawa district offer a rare blend of history, culture, and raw nature. You won’t find luxury resorts or tourist crowds here—and that’s the magic. It’s a place that welcomes you with open arms, where daily life flows gently, and nature speaks louder than neon signs.
Paired with Bali or Lombok, Sumbawa offers a refreshing contrast—not just in visitor numbers, but in scenery, pace, and spirit. It’s one of the few places where Indonesia still feels untouched, authentic, and deeply real.
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