Madura: A Guide to the Island East of Surabaya

By Dini

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While traveling around Indonesia, have you ever seen a food stall called “Sate Madura” or noticed shops with the word “Madura” at the end of their names? It’s not just a name—it shows that the owner comes from Madura Island. This island lies just east of Surabaya and is part of East Java, but its culture and people are quite different from the rest of Java.

Suramadu Bridge
The Suramadu Bridge, which connects Surabaya and Madura.

Madura is home to many people, but it’s still not so touristy. There are lots of beautiful places that haven’t been explored much, even though the island is easy to reach and full of natural charm. If you’re looking for something more local and authentic in Indonesia, Madura is definitely worth visiting.

In this guide, I’ll share everything you need to know about Madura—how to get there, what to see, and all the interesting things you can do while exploring the island.

What to Expect from Madura Island

Madura Island is just a short drive from Surabaya, connected by the Suramadu Bridge, and it offers a travel experience that still feels raw, real, and authentic. The weather here is hot—just like in Surabaya—but the heat actually plays an important role. It helps with natural salt production. That’s why Madura is known as the “Salt Island,” home to many traditional salt fields and the largest salt producer in Indonesia.

Karapan Sapi, Madura Island
Karapan Sapi

The island is also rich in culture and tradition. Life here feels different from the cities of East Java. The local language and dialect sound unique, and many traditions are still well preserved—like Petik Laut, a sea-offering ritual, and Karapan Sapi, a traditional bull race that has become a famous cultural event. Madura is also a religious destination, known for its historical Islamic figures and sacred burial sites visited by pilgrims.

Salt field in Madura
Madura traditional salt field

When it comes to places to visit, Madura has plenty to offer—quiet, beautiful beaches, dramatic limestone hills, and dozens of small islands stretching far to the east, even beyond the eastern coast of Bali. Areas like Bangkalan, Sumenep, and the northern coast are full of charm but still off the beaten path. Some places may lack modern infrastructure, but that’s exactly where you’ll find the most genuine experiences and connect deeply with local life. If you’re after a peaceful trip full of character and away from the crowds, Madura should definitely be on your list.

Things to Do and See in Madura

Madura is full of surprises when it comes to travel experiences. You’ll find a variety of attractions here—from natural landscapes and historical sites to island-hopping, quiet beaches, and mouthwatering local food. Unlike the more crowded tourist spots in Java or Bali, Madura offers a more laid-back and authentic vibe.

Here’s one of the many spots you can explore:

Arosbaya Limestone Hill

If you only have half a day to explore Madura, Arosbaya Limestone Hill is a great place to visit. It’s located in Arosbaya District, Bangkalan—about 45 minutes from Bangkalan city center, or around one hour from Surabaya.

Arosbaya limestone hill, Madura
Arosbaya limestone hill in Bangkalan

This hill used to be an active limestone quarry. The mining process left behind tall cliffs with naturally carved patterns, creating a canyon-like landscape. What makes it stand out is the color—unlike most limestone hills that are white, the rocks here have a warm golden-brown tone. Because of its unique texture and color, many people compare it to Antelope Canyon in Arizona, USA.

The symmetrical rock formations make it a favorite backdrop for prewedding photos, selfies, or social media content. Entrance is very affordable—around IDR 5,000 (prices may change).

Getting there is relatively easy. Local public transport passes near the area, and you can also stop by the religious site Makam Aermata Ebhu, which is just about 450 meters from the hill. If you’re taking public transport, you can get off near the site and walk the rest of the way.

North Coast Destinations in Madura

Madura’s north coast is full of hidden gems that are worth exploring. One of them is Nepa Beach in Sampang Regency, a peaceful and unspoiled beach that’s perfect if you’re looking to enjoy the sea without the crowds. Nearby, you’ll find Nepa Monkey Forest, home to hundreds of long-tailed monkeys that roam freely without bothering visitors.

the northern coast of Madura
The atmosphere of the beach on the northern coast of Madura, known for its distinctive golden-brown sand.

In Bangkalan, you can visit Rongkang Beach, known for its rocky shoreline and distant views of the Suramadu Bridge. For a more local and authentic experience, take time to stop by traditional fishing villages along the coast. You’ll see daily life in action—wooden boats, friendly locals, and fresh seafood straight from the sea.

Another unique spot is Toroan Waterfall in the Ketapang area. What makes it special is its location right on the coast, where the freshwater falls directly into the sea—a rare and beautiful sight. The north coast of Madura may not be as famous as the south, but that’s exactly what makes it special: quiet, natural, and full of unexpected beauty.

Keraton Sumenep (Sumenep Palace)

Heading to the eastern part of Madura, you’ll arrive in Sumenep Regency—the largest region on the island and one of the richest in historical heritage. Here, you can visit Keraton Sumenep, a royal palace that still stands strong today. Much like the palaces in Yogyakarta or Surakarta, this one carries deep historical value and features a unique architectural mix of Chinese, European, and Javanese influences. Built in 1762, the palace is still in use today.

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Inside the complex, you’ll explore four main buildings that are still active, plus a royal bathing garden called Taman Sare. To fully enjoy the experience, it’s a good idea to hire a local guide—there are even English-speaking guides available on site.

During the tour, you’ll see a fascinating collection of items, including portraits of former Sumenep kings and regents, traditional cooking tools, weapons, porcelain gifts from Thailand, and even a royal horse carriage gifted by the British monarchy. One of the most unique pieces is a handwritten Qur’an that, according to local legend, was completed in just one night by Sultan Abdul Rachman.

To end the tour, you’ll visit Taman Sare, the royal bathing pool with three water gates, which are believed to bring good luck. Visitors are welcome to step into the pool and splash their face as part of the symbolic tradition.

Entrance to the palace is affordable—around IDR 20,000 per person. Tour guide fees are not fixed, but a tip of IDR 50,000 or more is generally appreciated based on your experience.

Jamik Mosque of Sumenep

After exploring the Sumenep Palace, don’t miss a visit to the nearby Jamik Mosque, located just around the town square (Alun-Alun). Built in 1787, it’s one of the oldest mosques in Indonesia and is still actively used for worship today.

Jamik Mosque of Sumenep
Jamik Mosque of Sumenep

What makes this mosque stand out is its unique architecture. The main gate is painted in bright yellow and combines Chinese, European, and Javanese design elements—creating a striking yet elegant appearance that reflects the cultural richness of the region.

There’s no entrance fee to visit the mosque, but be sure to dress modestly, as it’s still an active place of worship. Spending time here can be both peaceful and enriching, offering a quiet moment of reflection in the heart of Sumenep.

Gili Iyang – The Oxygen Island

About 30 km east of downtown Sumenep, you’ll find Gili Iyang—a small island often called the “Oxygen Island.” It’s known for having the highest oxygen levels in Indonesia and is said to rank second in the world, just after Jordan. According to a 2006 study by Indonesia’s National Institute of Aeronautics and Space (LAPAN), the oxygen level here reaches 20.9 percent.

This high oxygen concentration comes from the surrounding sea, which contains natural salt aerosols like magnesium sulfate and Epsom salt—minerals believed to be beneficial for skin health.

Taxi Laut, Madura
Sea taxis or Taxi Laut are water transportation that carry passengers to the islands around Madura.

But Gili Iyang isn’t just healthy—it’s also beautiful and full of surprises. You can visit Batu Cangga, a natural sea cliff corridor with a unique rock “support” structure. There’s also Gua Mahakarya, an exotic cave known as a natural oxygen chamber, and of course, peaceful white-sand beaches perfect for relaxing or snorkeling.

To get there, take a land vehicle from Sumenep to Dungkek Port, then hop on a sea taxi—a small motorboat that fits around 20 people. The crossing takes about 30 to 40 minutes. Tickets cost around IDR 10,000 per person, depending on how many passengers are on board. You can also rent a private boat for a few hundred thousand rupiah if you prefer more flexibility.

Seeing Traditional Salt Production in Southern Sumenep

As the “Salt Island,” Madura is home to many salt fields that are still managed using traditional methods. If you’re curious about how salt is made, head to the southern part of Sumenep, to villages like Nambakor, Marengan Laok, or Pinggir Papas. Here, you can watch the salt farmers harvest salt from seawater—using techniques that haven’t changed much for generations.

Traditional salt making
The traditional way salt farmers sprinkle seawater onto the land that will be used for salt production.

You’ll see how seawater is poured and dried under the sun until it crystallizes into salt. Some farmers even carry the seawater manually, just like in the old days. The wide salt fields also serve as a natural habitat for various water birds, like herons. 

Traditional Events in Madura

Beyond its natural beauty, Madura is rich in culture and traditions that are still very much alive today. One of the most well-preserved customs is Petik Laut, a sea-offering ceremony held by coastal communities in northern Madura. During this event, locals prepare colorful offerings and place them on decorated boats, which are then set adrift into the sea as a symbol of gratitude for the year’s fishing harvest. Petik Laut is usually held during the Islamic month of Suro (around late June to July), with Ambunten in Sumenep being one of the places that still actively practices it.

Traditional boats in Madura
Madura traditional boats

Another iconic tradition you can witness is Karapan Sapi, Madura’s famous bull race. Originally, this was a way to find the strongest bulls for plowing the island’s dry, hard soil. In the race, two bulls pull a wooden sled while a jockey rides behind them, balancing with skill and speed. Over time, it has evolved into a lively cultural event and public spectacle.

Karapan Sapi takes place in many parts of the island, including Bangkalan, Sampang, Pamekasan, and Sumenep. The races are usually held in rice fields that are temporarily turned into racing tracks. The most festive time to watch is around Indonesia’s Independence Day in August.

Food You Must Try in Madura

Besides its rich traditions and culture, Madura is also famous for its delicious local food. If you visit the island, make sure you don’t miss out on tasting its authentic and flavorful dishes.

Sate Madura, street food Indonesia
Sate Madura

Sate Ayam Madura

Who hasn’t heard of Sate Madura? This grilled chicken skewer dish is popular all over Indonesia. The chicken is skewered with bamboo sticks, grilled over hot charcoal, and served with rice cakes (lontong) and rich, savory peanut sauce. 

Bebek Sinjay

One of Madura’s most iconic dishes is Bebek Sinjay—crispy fried duck served with spicy mango sambal. The mix of sour and spicy flavors makes it super refreshing. The famous Bebek Sinjay restaurant is located in Bangkalan, just about an hour from Surabaya, and it’s almost always busy with hungry visitors.

Nasi Bebek Bumbu Hitam

If you love duck dishes, Nasi Bebek Bumbu Hitam is a must-try. This dish is all about the bold, black-colored sauce made from a blend of shallots, garlic, ginger, coriander, tamarind, and toasted grated coconut. Served with warm rice and spicy sambal, it’s packed with flavor and definitely satisfying.

Soto Madura

Soto Madura is a legendary local soup. It has a cloudy yellow broth with a rich flavor from ground candlenuts. It usually comes with glass noodles, shredded cabbage, boiled egg, and chicken or beef. 

Lorjuk

For something unique from the sea, try lorjuk—a type of long, thin clam that’s native to Madura. Preparing it is a bit of a process, involving boiling and sun-drying before it can be stir-fried or made into crunchy peyek (crispy crackers). The result is a tasty, salty snack or side dish.

How to Get to Madura Island from Surabaya

Getting to Madura Island usually starts from Surabaya, and the easiest way is by road—crossing the famous Suramadu Bridge that connects the two islands. The drive across takes only about 10 to 30 minutes, depending on traffic. You can go by private vehicle, rental car, or other types of transport.

Suramadu bridge
The motorcycle lane on the Suramadu Bridge (pexeles/setengalimasore).

Once you’re on the island, there are two main routes to explore Madura:

The southern route is the main road that passes through all the major towns across Madura. It’s the most commonly used route and a good choice if you want to get a full picture of local life across the island.

The northern route is quieter and gives you scenic views of the coastline as you drive. The road is generally in good condition, although a few sections can be narrow. Still, it’s a beautiful and memorable drive if you’re up for a more relaxed and visually rewarding experience.

You can travel around Madura clockwise or counterclockwise—it really depends on what you want to see and how you’d like to plan your route.

Rent a Car with a Driver

If you’re looking for flexibility, renting a car with a driver from Surabaya is one of the best options. It takes around 4 to 5 hours to travel across Madura from west to east, depending on your route and how many stops you make along the way.

If you choose the northern route, you’ll pass by several beaches that are just a short walk from the main road—perfect for spontaneous stops. Whether you want to take photos, feel the sea breeze, or just enjoy a quiet moment by the coast, having your own car and driver makes the journey a lot more relaxed and personal.

Before renting a car and driver to explore, make sure to read this guide first, How to Hire a Reliable Guide or Driver in Java, Indonesia

Renting a Motorbike from Surabaya

If you’re planning a solo trip to Madura, renting a motorbike from Surabaya can be a fun and budget-friendly option. Motorbikes are allowed to cross the Suramadu Bridge, but there’s one thing you should be aware of: the wind. Gusts from the Madura Strait can be quite strong, especially during the day or in uncertain weather—so ride carefully.

On the bridge, motorbikes and cars use separate lanes. The motorbike lane has high metal railings on both sides for safety. The lane isn’t very wide, so it’s best not to speed, even though overtaking is still possible. With a motorbike, you’ll have more freedom to stop at scenic spots along the way. 

There are many ways to explore Java Island—so we already resume on How to Get Around Java: Transportation Guide

Public Transportation

Since late 2024, the Trans Jatim Cakraningrat bus service has officially started operating. These green buses run between Purabaya Terminal (also known as Bungurasih Terminal) in Surabaya and Cakraningrat Terminal in Bangkalan, Madura. If you’re looking to explore Madura on a short trip, this bus is a great option.

It’s super affordable—only IDR 5,000 per ride. The buses are also quite comfortable, with air-conditioning, cushioned seats, and clean interiors. They operate daily from 5 AM to 9 PM.

Jaddih limestone hill, Madura
Besides Arosbaya, Jaddih Limestone Hill used to be one of the most famous sites in Bangkalan. (Unsplash/hafizhmaryansyah)

Once you arrive in Bangkalan, you can visit the Cakraningrat Museum, which holds a fascinating collection from the Bangkalan Kingdom era. ItJaddih Limestone Hill was once a very popular limestone site in Bangkalan, but nowadays it is poorly maintained.’s just about 800 meters from the terminal, or around a 7-minute walk. While you’re there, don’t miss out on trying some of Madura’s famous dishes like Bebek Sinjay and Sate Madura—they’re local favorites for a reason.

Intercity Bus

If you want to explore more of Madura and visit other regencies like Sampang, Pamekasan, or Sumenep, taking an intercity bus is a practical option. From Surabaya, one of the available choices is the Akas N1 bus, which departs from Bungurasih (Purabaya) Terminal.

The fare is quite affordable—around IDR 55,000 for a one-way trip. You don’t need to book in advance; just head to the terminal and pay in cash on the spot. Keep in mind, though, that traveling by bus can take a bit longer, especially if the bus waits (or ngetem) for additional passengers along the way.

Taxi or Online Transport

Another option you can consider is using a taxi or ride-hailing services like Grab or Gojek. This type of transport is great for short and flexible trips—for example, if you just want to cross over to Madura for a quick lunch of Bebek Sinjay in Bangkalan and head back to Surabaya afterward.

However, keep in mind that online transport tends to be more expensive than public transport. Also, not all drivers are willing to take cross-island trips between Surabaya and Madura, so you might face some cancellations when trying to book.

Backindo Tips: Try combining different modes of transport for a more efficient journey. For instance, you can take the Trans Jatim bus from Surabaya to Bangkalan, and then continue your trip in Madura using an online motorbike taxi. It’s more budget-friendly and gives you more freedom to explore local spots.

How to Get Around Madura

Even though Madura isn’t as modern as its neighbor Surabaya, getting around the island is actually pretty easy—especially in the main towns and city areas. In some places, you’ll still find local transportation like minibuses (angkot) and small public buses. For example, in Bangkalan, there’s already a Trans Madura bus service that runs from Kamal Terminal (near the ferry port), through the IKM center, to Cakraningrat Terminal.

That said, public transport in Madura doesn’t really reach many of the island’s coastal or remote tourist spots. So if you’re planning to explore off-the-beaten-path destinations, renting your own vehicle is the way to go.

You can easily rent motorbikes or cars around the island. Motorbike rental prices usually start from around IDR 70,000 per day. It’s a great option if you want the freedom to stop wherever you like, especially when heading toward hidden gems far from the main roads. In some areas like Bangkalan and Sumenep, online motorbike taxis are also available for short-distance trips.

Where to Stay in Madura

Not done exploring Madura? No worries—you can definitely stay overnight on the island. Areas like Pamekasan and Sumenep offer several accommodation options for travelers. Here are a few recommended places to stay in Madura:

Backindo Tip: Since Madura is still under the radar for most international travelers, you won’t find many accommodations on Booking.com or Agoda. For a wider selection, try browsing options on Traveloka.

de BAGHRAF by Amithya – Sumenep
This 3-star hotel is located in a strategic spot, just a short walk from Sumenep’s main square (alun-alun). The hotel also features a cozy restaurant and swimming pool, making it a great choice for a relaxing stay.

El Malik Hotel – Sumenep
If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option, El Malik Hotel is a solid alternative. It’s located close to the city center, and rooms even come with a small terrace outside each room.

Odaita Hotel – Pamekasan
Located in Pademawu, Odaita Hotel is a 3-star property with a garden, shared lounge, and outdoor terrace. You’ll also find a restaurant and swimming pool on-site.

Safety in Madura

You might hear some Javanese people say Madura isn’t safe—this impression comes from the island’s rougher reputation in the past. Things have changed a lot in recent years, and today Madura is generally safe for travelers, especially if you stick to well-known areas and act respectfully.

Religious Indonesia
The Madurese people are quite religious and commonly wear sarongs in their daily lives.

That said, it’s still a deeply religious and conservative island. Women should dress modestly—covering shoulders and knees is a good rule of thumb. Public displays of affection between couples are also frowned upon, so keep things low-key.

While violent crime is rare, it’s wise to avoid walking around alone at night, especially female solo travelers. Not because it’s dangerous per se, but because you’ll stand out, and it may cause unnecessary attention or discomfort.

Let’s Explore Madura

Exploring Madura Island can be a fun and off-the-beaten-path experience while you’re in Java. It offers a different side of the island—beyond the graceful dances and soft-spoken language you might expect. Madura shows that Java is more diverse, with its own bold culture, distinct language, and strong local identity.

It’s also a great destination for a short escape. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of Surabaya, Madura offers a refreshing change of pace—peaceful, authentic, and full of surprises. So why not give this underrated island a try?

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